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Luxury vinyl plank in a mid-century home

By Szeto Handyman · Updated · 4 min read

Quick answer

Luxury vinyl plank is water resistant, durable and comfortable underfoot. Success depends on a flat subfloor, the right underlayment, expansion gaps and careful transitions at doors and other floors.

Room finished with new gray wood-look vinyl plank flooring

LVP has become a popular choice in Monterey Park homes because it handles spills and pets well and installs over many existing floors.

Subfloor

LVP needs a flat subfloor. Dips and humps telegraph through the planks.

Moisture

Slab floors can bring up moisture; some products need a vapor barrier.

Installer fitting a plank into place on a floor

Expansion gaps

LVP needs a small gap around the edges, hidden by baseboard or quarter round.

Transitions

Doorways and changes in flooring need transition strips.

Doors

Doors may need trimming to clear the new floor height.

Living room with new wood-look vinyl plank floor

Why LVP suits Monterey Park homes

Mid-century homes often have a mix of old carpet, vinyl and worn hardwood. LVP gives one continuous floor through living areas, handles spills, and stands up to pets and kids. It is also quieter underfoot with a good underlayment.

Over slab or raised floor

Many hillside homes have part slab and part raised floor. Slab areas may need a vapor barrier. Raised floors may need screws added to quiet squeaks before installation.

Leveling

Floors in older homes settle. We check flatness with a long straightedge and fill low spots or grind high spots before laying planks.

Kitchens and baths

LVP is water resistant, but standing water can still get under it at the edges. In bathrooms and kitchens, we seal edges with flexible caulk at tubs and cabinets.

Stairs

Stairs need special nosing pieces and careful cutting.

Why LVP suits hillside homes

Luxury vinyl plank is waterproof at the surface, comfortable under foot, and tolerates the temperature swings that rooms with big windows see in summer. It is a popular choice for kitchens, bathrooms, laundry rooms and lower-level rooms on hillside lots where a slab may stay cool and slightly damp.

It is also thinner than most hardwood, which helps where floors meet at doorways and stair edges.

Rigid core versus flexible plank

Rigid-core planks, often labeled SPC or WPC, have a stiff center layer and click together as a floating floor. They bridge small dips in the subfloor and feel more solid. Flexible or glue-down vinyl is thinner and follows every bump, so the subfloor has to be very flat.

For most remodel-style installs in older homes, rigid-core click plank is what we recommend. Look at the wear layer thickness when comparing products; a thicker wear layer, measured in mils, holds up better to pets, chairs and grit.

Subfloor prep matters most

Most LVP manufacturers specify a maximum flatness variation, commonly around three-sixteenths of an inch over ten feet. Older homes rarely meet that without work. High spots are ground down, low spots filled with patching compound, and loose plywood or squeaky boards fastened down.

On a concrete slab, we check moisture and use the underlayment or vapor barrier the manufacturer calls for. Skipping prep is the most common reason a floating floor clicks, flexes or separates at the seams.

Can it go over existing floors?

Often, yes. LVP can usually float over flat, firmly set ceramic tile, sheet vinyl or a single layer of old vinyl, which saves demolition time. It should not go over carpet or over a floor that is cushioned, loose or uneven.

Keep in mind that each added layer raises the floor, which affects door clearance, appliance fit and transitions to other rooms.

Old flooring and asbestos

Some vinyl tiles, sheet flooring and black mastic adhesive from the 1950s through the 1980s contain asbestos. If your home has old 9-inch square tiles or you are not sure what is under the current floor, do not sand, scrape or grind it. Test first. Covering an intact old floor with LVP is often the simplest and safest path.

Layout and expansion

Our steps:

  • Acclimate planks in the room as the manufacturer directs
  • Undercut door casings so planks slide underneath
  • Plan rows so the first and last rows are not slivers
  • Stagger end joints so seams do not line up
  • Leave the required expansion gap at walls, cabinets and pipes
  • Cover gaps with baseboard, quarter round or transition strips

Floating floors need to move, so heavy kitchen islands and built-in cabinets usually should not be installed on top of them.

Baseboards and transitions

New flooring is a good time to look at the trim. Removing and reinstalling baseboard gives a cleaner finish than adding quarter round, and it is an easy moment to upgrade. Our baseboard and crown molding guide covers that. At doorways, a matching transition strip handles height changes between rooms.

Care

Sweep or vacuum grit regularly, use felt pads under furniture, and clean with a damp mop and a cleaner approved for vinyl. Avoid steam mops, which can weaken seams on some products.

Stairs and landings

Split-level and hillside homes often have short runs of stairs between levels. LVP can cover stairs using matching stair nose pieces, but each tread has to be cut and glued rather than floated, and the nosing must be fastened securely so it never shifts underfoot.

It takes much longer per square foot than open floor, so plan time and budget for it. Carpeted stairs left as they are can look fine next to new plank floors if the transition is clean.

What our visit involves

We prep, install LVP, trim doors and reinstall baseboard. See luxury vinyl plank.

Flooring days near Atlantic Boulevard end with dumplings at Mama Lu's.

Want us to handle it?

Call or text (626) 684-3505, Mon–Sat, 8:30 AM–7 PM. Send a photo and we will give you an upfront quote.

Call or text (626) 684-3505